Gaia Italian Cafe – A Dusty Review

Ambiance of Gaia Italian Cafe

Gaia Italian Cafe

website

251 East Houston Street (btwn Norfolk and Suffolk)

Breakfast and lunch hours, Monday – Saturday

Dinner Friday and Saturday

Closed Sundays

646 350 3977

Now and then a gem of a cafe opens up that makes us think maybe we’ve time-warped to a period when NYC wasn’t so, well, darned trendy.  When the owner knows our name and the menu is always adaptable.

Such is the case at Gaia Italian Cafe.  On a nondescript stretch of the south side of East Houston, somewhere between Avenues A and B, Gaia is nestled on basement level.  Metal stairs, an open door, a small sign and bright red and green lettering above beckon you.  Once inside, you meet Gaia.

Gaia, the proprietress, has a warm, relaxed demeanor and an energetic smile that welcomes locals and tourists alike.  As a matter of such, she recently relayed this idea to me: that her customers, her regulars, are like her family.  You’ll often hear her speaking in rapid Italian to a patron, or several, while insisting they try a cookie with their coffee.  At one point I had a friend who lived across the street, and along with the intense Americano’s he’d bring back up to the apartment during a work break would usually come some sort of gluten-free, sugary treat, at Gaia’s insistence.

To be completely honest, I’d been to Gaia’s dozens of times before thinking to review it for Bromography.  And in all those dozens of times, I’d never actually looked at a menu.  Gaia knows of my allergies, so depending on the time of day I’d merely ask “Gaia, what can you make for me, whatever you have already going?”  And to my plate would come gently tossed greens with freshly chopped tomatoes in a rich olive oil, softly baked eggs resting on top.  She’d bring a panini for my friend on freshly baked bread.  A neighboring table might have homemade lasagna that she’d just let out to sit and settle.  Paninis piled high with imported meats and cheeses would be made with time and care.

Though almost always busy, I’ve never seen Gaia rush to make a meal.  And in all my times there, I’d never heard someone complain.  More often than not, she’s introducing people by name as she bakes bread, slices meat and pulls coffee.

She’s also aware of food allergies in general, and is exploring gluten-free options.  Her chewy almond cookies are sweet and delicious and completely gluten-free.  For a while she had me adapting a classic Italian lemon and rosemary biscotti recipe for her that I hope she’ll bring back on the menu soon.  She strives to cater to her customers needs while keeping with the traditions of Italian cooking and the quality of her cafe.

On one wall  of the small but airy space is a blackboard with chalked specials and amazing coffee offerings; if you’re a coffee person don’t hesitate to get a shot of espresso or a gorgeously pulled cappuccino.  There’s nothing fancy about the presentation; you won’t get a little leaf or decorative symbol in your foam.  What you will get is a dark, rich, truly Italian cup of coffee.  And if you’re so taken, you can buy some beans to take home.

Also available in the cafe are imported meats and cheeses you can sample there or buy by the pound: though I have yet to try it, one day I’m going to treat myself to a plate of prosciutto and melon, one of my favorite Italian lunch staples.  She also carries imported Italian sodas; she thrust a bitter citrus one on me when I stopped in on an insanely hot July day. As she predicted, it was confoundingly refreshing.

And once your meal is over and you’ve ordered your coffee, she might just insist that you have a cookie, which may run you up to a cool $1.

Oh, that’s another thing about this cafe.  It’s a steal.  Lunch specials are almost all under $10.  Cookies and pastries are a ridiculous 50 cents – $1.  An insanely delicious coffee will cost you half of what it does at Starbucks.  I don’t know how Gaia stays in business, but her following has been loyal since she opened in January.  And if we’re lucky, she’s got a long road ahead of her.

If you stop by, tell her Jacqueline said hi.  Seriously.  I owe her a few cups of coffee.

Talking Points:

• Incredibly affordable, filling, healthy, delicious, close-to-the-earth cooking.
• A friendly and charming proprietress.
• Have allergies? Just tell her and she’ll whip you up something safe.
• Amazing coffee.
• Relaxed atmosphere (free wifi)

Go if: You want to relax, eat some authentic and delicious Italian food, and maybe meet a few new friends over coffee.