Summer in Soho

Delicatessen

54 Prince Street, SOHO
New York New York
(212) 226-0211
www.delicatessennyc.com

I was lucky enough to represent Bromography at Delicatessen’s Summer in Soho. The evening was a celebration of the sun and new menu items from Chef Michael Ferraro and Pastry Chef Kate Cowan.

I arrived a bit late (you know, fashionably so) to what you might call organized chaos. A DJ filled the glass-roofed lounge with dance beats as hungry foodies protected seats and pounced at a singular brave server each time he resurfaced. I dodged my way to the back room in search of a friendlier crowd. Peeking across the room to see another lone soldier at the helm of the mini-bar, I settled into a foreboding line. The handsome lounge – dark with small bottles lining the walls – fun music, vodka soda from a passing tray and fellow bloggers made the wait more manageable.

I was able to snag a few hors d’ouvres from the line. I hadn’t yet seen a menu, so I was eating blind. My first snack was single-bite tomato & mozzarella salad. The tomato was juicy and the mozzarella a surprisingly savory treat. There was something so foreign to me about this mozzarella that I wasn’t even sure it was cheese before the person beside me confirmed it. I later discovered the source of my confusion: tempura of fresh mozzarella. Now that I understand what I ate, I like it even more. What better salad to personify the restaurant’s promise of “international comfort food”?

Next was a smoked chicken taco with pico de gallo and salsa picante. This one packed some heat. I could handle it – and enjoyed the strong hit of pico – with drink in hand, but it’s not a good pick for the faint of palate. While the pulled chicken brought a lot to the table in flavor, it left much to be desired in moisture.

Now at the bar, I ordered a Tilly. The specialty cocktail of the night, the Tilly’s a mix of muddled strawberry and lime, Satisfaction vodka and pomegranate juice served straight up. Just strong enough, it was a pretty summer treat and a big hit with the partygoers.  I’m not much of a sweet drinker, so I preferred mine on the rocks with a lighter dose of pomegranate.

The sesame chicken lettuce wraps were savory-sweet bites of cashew and pickled papaya-dressed chicken on refreshingly crisp bibb lettuce. I enjoyed it, but could have used another bite to size up how they rank in the crowd of Thai-inspired lettuce wraps.  Rumor had it, however, that the flash fried tuna avocado rolls and pork mole tacos, the two items I wasn’t able to get my hands on, were the night’s winners.

Desserts were easier to come by. A chocolate layer cake was, well, a chocolate layer cake. Aside from the top fudgey layer I was tempted to tear off and eat on its own, I was completely bored by this one. The cheesecake lollipops were a few luscious bites of smooth cheesecake dipped in chocolate. Cheesecake’s not my favorite, so while I won’t be ordering these for myself in the future, they’re a solid pick for a group dinner.  The chocolate, partially rolled in crushed nuts, tasted fresh and stayed on the pop as you bit into it so you weren’t left with chocolate shards on the floor and only cheesecake on your stick.

The beignets, whose reputation preceded them, were hands down the highlight of the evening. Little balls of doughnut delight, served with a bourbon crème anglaise dipping sauce, these little guys go straight to the heart (now that I said it, pun intended). I was reminded of my mozzarella confusion as I tried to pinpoint what it was that balanced their sweetness and made them so addictive. I should have known bacon would be the culprit. If you’re going to order one guilty pleasure at Delicatessen, make it the maple bacon beignets.

Amply “comforted” and Tilly’d, I turned a blind eye to Soho’s bars as I scurried off to bed.