Practically Perfect

Genius…one percent inspiration and ninety-nine percent perspiration. ~ Thomas Edison

It is quite apparent that a lot of perspiration, serious thought and hard work have been invested into Buttermilk Channel.  As a tribute to the area’s history, the  restaurant  is named for the tidal strait between Brooklyn and Governor’s Island in New York harbor (not their well known buttermilk fried chicken).  The deceptively simple decor creates an incredibly warm and cozy atmosphere through the use of strategic lighting.  Everyone on the staff appears to be warm, friendly and extremely efficient.

All the menus (brunch, kids, vegetarian, dinner and dessert) are all very well thought out, with careful attention to quality food sources and artisanal preparations.  Items, such as the house-made pickles, ham and foie gras terrine, buttermilk whipped potatos, buttermilk fried chicken and pecan pie sundae, can make you mouth water just by reading the menu.  The dishes delivered to each table are creatively plated edible art work.  The complementary popovers are a lovely way to start a meal which by every indication would be perfect.

Unfortunately, my meal was a bit of a let down.  I started with house made pickles which were OK.  An order of duck meatloaf followed.  Although it was well cooked and moist, the meatloaf was  bland. I yearned for my spice rack.  My companion’s warm lamb salad was also bland.  The ham and foie gras terrine was enjoyable. (I have a weakness for foie gras and almost any cured pork product.)  I also enjoyed the pecan pie sundae despite (or maybe because of) the sugar coma which resulted.  Frankly, the only item which lived up to my expectations was one which we did not even order, the grilled pole beans with lemon and sea salt.  They were simple and absolutely divine!  A lovely couple seated at a neighboring table took pity on me after seeing our disappointment with the meal, and allowed me to sample their order.

I cannot fault the efforts of Buttermilk Channel.  It is a good restaurant which excels in many ways; however, I do hope  the team finds the 1% inspiration needed to bring the food up to the level of the rest of its efforts.  For now, it is only practically perfect.

Buttermilk Channel
524 Court Street, Carroll Gardens, Brooklyn (718) 852-8490
www.buttermilkchannelnyc.com